Walking Tour
Provost's Pioneer Era
Origins of a Prairie Town
By Andrew Farris
Take a journey through the exciting Provost's first decades, when a few bold settlers set out to build a town in the middle of an ocean of prairie grass. We start with the First Nations peoples who have lived on these prairies since time immemorial, and learn about Treaty 6 which set the stage for the full-scale European settlement of this region. Then we will see where the railway station once stood, and see how and why settlers began flocking to this town between 1907 and 1914.
We'll learn about the different groups of people who arrived here, like the Americans, Scandinavians, and Chinese, and how they contributed to the community. Then we'll walk up 50th Street (Provost's Main Street) and learn about businesses that shaped Provost, like the Pioneer Store, the Meat Market, and Club Cafe. We continue towards the west, discovering how people had fun in those days, and about the educational, religious, and volunteer institutions that shaped the people of Provost. Finally we'll return back to Main Street and conclude with Larson's Hardware, a family-owned business that has been in Provost ever since the beginning.
The tour is around 1.5 kilometres walking distance and will take around 90 minutes to fully complete.
This project is a partnership with the Town of Provost, with assistance provided by the Provost & District Museum.
1. The First Peoples
1954
* * *
Europeans settled on the Great Plains in what would become Canada and the United States in rapidly increasing numbers throughout the 19th century. They sought total control over the territory and saw the First Peoples as an impediment to these schemes. Unfortunately the First Peoples' dependence on the bison became a serious weakness in the face of European exploitation.
From the mid-1800s, the bison were hunted to the brink of extinction, first as part of the fur trade, and later with the deliberate aim of wiping them out and depriving the First Peoples of their ancient way of life. Starvation, along with devastating epidemics of European-introduced diseases, decimated the Indigenous societies, and made them reliant on the new settler governments for aid.
In a series of treaties in the 1870s, the First Peoples on the Canadian prairies were made to give up their semi-nomadic lifestyles and remain confined to reservations on marginal land under the watchful eye of Indian agents. Treaty 6 was signed in the summer of 1876 at Sounding Lake, just a short distance south of Provost.
The treaty was only written in English and included the clause:
The Plain and Wood Cree Tribes of Indians, and all other the Indians inhabiting the district hereinafter described and defined, do hereby cede, release, surrender and yield up to the Government of the Dominion of Canada, for Her Majesty the Queen and Her successors forever, all their rights, titles and privileges, whatsoever, to the lands included within the following limits…
As was often the case with treaties between the Crown and Canada's Indigenous peoples, the Cree representatives had a radically different concept of land ownership, and the ceding of it. Thanks to poor translation conducted orally on the spot, the Cree came away with the understanding that they were sharing the land, or it was just being borrowed.
In the treaty the government undertook to provide the First Peoples with regular provisions, equipment, and cash payments. Ultimately none of these guarantees would be honoured, and tens of thousands of Plains and Wood Cree and Blackfoot would die of starvation and epidemic disease on reserves in the 1870s and 1880s.
The treaty cleared the way for the settling of Provost some 30 years later.
2. Elevator Row
Provincial Archives of Alberta A4954
ca. 1916
* * *
In the 1850s politicians in Toronto and Montreal were beginning to dream of uniting all the colonies of British North America into a Canadian Dominion that stretched across the continent from Victoria to Halifax.
They saw that Americans were beginning to settle and farm the plains to the south, and they feared if they didn't do the same then American settlers would simply move in and occupy the prairies north of the 49th Parallel. They decided to take another look at the farming potential on the prairies and sent an expedition headed by John Palliser to survey the region.
Palliser's findings prompted great enthusiasm. He identified a vast area, known as Palliser's Triangle, as semi-desert but suitable enough for cattle ranching. Ringing it however he found belts of extremely fertile soil that could support the kind of sustained settlement needed to bring these areas under Canadian control.
Provost is located at the top of the red isosceles triangle which was characterized as semi-desert and sandy soil, best for ranching. The orange and yellow bands were thought more fruitful for agriculture.
The Canadian Pacific Railway came east through Alberta in 1885, crossing to the south of what would become Provost through the middle of Palliser's Triangle. Most of the land in the region was given over to cattle ranching and immigration remained relatively low.
However, by the early 1900s, it was discovered that the Triangle was arable after all—if great matrixes of irrigation channels could be built. Furthermore a new strand of wheat, called Marquis, could withstand the challenging climate and periodic drought conditions. Suddenly the agricultural potential of the region was looking a lot more promising.
This coincided with a massive push by the Canadian government to import millions of immigrants to the prairies. Homesteaders and investment flowed in. The decade before the First World War saw the greatest immigration boom in Canadian history, with over a million immigrants settling across the prairies. The economic potential of the region fanned a railway mania that saw the building of two more trans-continental rail lines and hundreds of spur lines.
In 1907, along one of these spur lines, near the top of Palliser's Triangle, the Canadian Pacific Railway engineer David Livingstone surveyed the townsite that would become Provost.2
3. The Settlers
University of Alberta PC029133
ca. 1920s
* * *
As Americans from the Midwest, the aforementioned entrepreneurs Foss and Brue were not without company. The town's first doctor, W.O. York, had come from Arkansas. The Alberta prairies were just opening up to homesteaders after the American Frontier had been declared closed in 1897, and no more free land was to be had.
The frontier moved north of the border. The Canadian government thought Americans to be desirable immigrants who "brought machinery, money, and farming experience," and ran huge advertising campaigns to bring them here. They were wildly successful: Between 1898 and 1914 some 60,000 Americans (mostly farmers) emigrated to Canada. In 1911 they amounted to almost a quarter of Alberta's population.2
Many of these American transplants had originated in Norway and Germany. The region around Provost drew many Catholics from southern Germany, who named the hamlet of Rosenheim just to the south after a town in Bavaria. For those immigrants to America who had arrived too late to the free land party, places like Provost provided fresh opportunity.
A Swiss-German named Carl Stettler came to Alberta in 1903, and he wrote back to his compatriots in the Midwest encouraging them to join him in the Great White North:
"Conditions here are more orderly than in many places I have seen in the United States. Your life here is safer than there, nobody carries firearms with the exception of the police…laws are obeyed better…altogether the people are more decent and better mannered…who has courage, good will, enthusiasm for work and push will advance quicker here than anywhere else, as this country is only in a state of development and excellent chances are offered."3
Canada's welcome to immigrants was extremely selective however. Prevailing attitudes towards non-Europeans would appear to us as outrageously racist. These non-Europeans were strongly discouraged from immigrating—and sometimes legally barred from doing so.
As for the acceptable immigrants from Western, Central, and Northern Europe, (Eastern and Southern Europeans, such as Italians or Ukrainians were only grudgingly tolerated) they were expected to be loyal and adopt the British-dominated and -inspired Canadian identity.
As Wilfrid Laurier said in 1905 while proclaiming the founding of the province of Alberta:
"We do not want nor wish that any individual should forget the land of his origin. Let them look to the past, but let them still more look to the future… Let them become Canadians, British subjects and give their heart, their soul, their energy and all their power to Canada, to its institutions, and to its King."4
4. Pioneering in Provost
ca. 1910s
* * *
Without the railway, their contact with the outside world was still minimal, confined to periodic supply wagons from Hardisty. The Saturday mail wagon was "the big event of the week."
Unusually, his job as bank assistant didn't seem to imply an inordinate amount of work. The bank's safe was broken, so he carried all the depositors' cash around in his pocket while Gordon would carry a gun as protection.
"We were by no means overworked… We settled many knotty political and world problems sitting around on lbags of flour in the various stores. It was a lonesome country, the real prairie, and we could stand on the railroad grade and see miles and miles of snow in every direction."
The town continued to grow through 1909, and when the railway arrived at the end of the year, the tempo of life accelerated. At that point Dunbar thought "Provost was away to a good start."2
Several months later, in March, the Provost Star published its first edition and reflected on those first years of Provost's development:
"We have been struggling for some few years against the hardships incident to a pioneer life. But the struggle has given us strength, and in light of present achievement we look forward with cheery hope to the future. The years that are to come will not be idle years, but are we not firm believers in the doctrine of work?"3
5. Planning a Town
ca. 1910
* * *
This was all occurring in the backdrop of a land frenzy that swept the West in the decade preceding the First World War. Everyone was obsessed with buying and reselling real estate. For instance, "In 1908, Saskatoon had eight real estate brokers; by 1912 it had 257," writes Pierre Berton. In Calgary some 2,000 men were employed as realtors, fully 10% of the adult male population.1
Provost was not immune to this mania, and as soon as the lots were laid out people began to snap them up. Realtors like Coffey's became a booming business.
When Eleanor Carter arrived in early 1910, she recalled that there were then four general stores (Briggin-shaw's, Simpson's, Tiffin's, and Foss & Brue's), a post office (inside Foss & Brue's), Joe Eaton's meat market, two hardware stores (Larson's and McNeil's), two lumber dealers (Johnstone's Lumber and Beaver Lumber), a blacksmith (Bob Dick's), a real estate office (Coffey's) and two churches.
"Provost was booming," she recalled.3
6. Cattle Ranching
Provincial Archives of Alberta A13275
1951
* * *
However, when developments in agriculture opened up the region for intensive farming, homesteaders took up their plots of land and fenced them in, leaving less and less room for the ranchers, who complained bitterly. The decline in cattle ranching was helped along mightily by a series of terrible winters from 1905 to 1911, which in some cases wiped out up to 80% of the herds.1
Nevertheless cattle ranching never went away. Instead it took on new forms. Homesteaders on more marginal land, like the Frasers, Phipps, and Miekles, started raising their own small herds. Some so-called 'cattle kings reconsolidated huge plots of land for ranching in southern Alberta, allowing the industry to stage a comeback. It remains an important part of Alberta's economy today.
8. The Pioneer Store
ca. 1910s
* * *
Jacob's wife, Martha Brue, wrote about those early pioneering days in the Early Furrows history book. She recalled the cold winters and how Jacob would have to commute to work from their homestead on skis.
The Foss & Brue Pioneeer Store became the centre of the town, a hub of activity, and—as post office—the place for people to gather, gossip, and hear the news from the outside world.
"When farmers came in to shop or to pass a little time on those cold days, there were many weighty and important problems discussed and solved around that big pot-bellied stove in the back of the Pioneer Store."
"We spent many happy years in Provost, had our children there and their first years of public and Sunday school." In 1920 however their great friends, the Foss's left for Vancouver, and Jacob and Martha "began to have visions of flowers, green grass, and warmer climate." A year later they also made the move to the west coast.
Martha always fondly remembered her "home town" and was still subscribing to the Provost Star 50 years later. 1
9. Having Fun
ca. 1910s
* * *
Sports was an everpresent diversion, with baseball and basketball proving the most popular in the summer, while in winter everyone took to the rinks to play hockey or curl. "Nearly all our people were quite sports minded," writes J. Dobson.1
The harness shops and livery stables meant there were lots of horses around, ostensibly for farming, but many had the opportunity to ride out over the open prairie. Before the decade was out the town boasted a (very popular) pool hall, a bowling alley, and a movie theatre.
Edna Larson recalled the litany of activities that occupied her childhood:
"There are so many happy memories of those days—too numerous to mention. There was the Lutheran Ladies Aid, held out south at Knudsens, or some place—the May 17 celebrations at Kikennes.
"We went to the Big Gap Stampede, that great distance in the old ford. There were Whist Drives and Box Socials, but I was too young. I do remember the New Year's Eve Fireman's Ball. It was held over McNeill's Hardware Store… Old and young went. There were no baby sitters.
"Picnics at Moore's Lake, CGIT camp, where we always went on the local to Czar and Hardisty Lakes. We had to pitch our tents and get our ticks filled with straws. What fun we had!"2
10. Churchgoing
ca. 1920s
* * *
The representation of six different christian congregations in this small town also tells us much about the diverse origins of these settlers. We should say diverse for the time, as they were all christians who ultimately originated from different parts of Europe (many coming via the American Midwest or Central Canada).
The Catholics of Provost primarily came from the Catholic-speaking regions of southern Germany, and had an enormous impact on the region's development. The community of Rosenheim, located just south of Provost and home to the impressive Gothic Revival style St. Norbert's Church, is named for a town in Bavaria.
St. Norbert's itself is an important heritage and featured heavily in our accompanying audio driving tour. Today there are 580 self-identified Catholics in Provost, nearly a third of the total population and by far the largest single religious group.
The Anglicans primarily came from England, and they held their first service in 1908 in the attic of Larson's Hardware store. By 1909 they had begun work on St. Paul's Church, and it is noted that throughout the following decades attendance averaged 20 people, with a high of 70 and a low of 4. Today there are only a few dozen practicing Anglicans still in Provost.
Methodists were committed to a social gospel of education and help for the poor and was especially popular in Ontario. Presbyterianism was another denomination committed to these same values, though it originated in 16th century Scotland, and most of its adherents were Scots. The two churches found their beliefs compatible enough to amalgamate in 1925, creating the United Church of Canada. They account for just under 10% of Provost's population today.3
Lutheranism was the dominant religion of Scandinavia and northern Germany, as is evident from the surnames of those attending the first Lutheran service in Provost: Hansel, Asmavik, Lakevold, Flexhaug, Foss, Knudson. Most of these families had emigrated from Norway to the American Midwest. From there they were drawn to Alberta by glittering advertisements for free land on the Canadian frontier.
The small contingent of Baptists seem to have mostly been immigrants from the United States. Evangelist denominations like the Baptists that were popular south of the border came to influence Alberta's cultural development in the decades that have followed.
11. Education
Provincial Archives of Alberta A4953
ca. 1916
* * *
This state of affairs could not be maintained for long, and a year later the first school was built on this plot of land before you, which had been set aside for the purpose by the Canadian Pacific Railway surveyors. It was a small wooden one-room schoolhouse.
It wasn't long before a bigger one was needed, as more immigrants arrived and they started having children—the first child was born to a Provost resident on June 1, 1909, and named Alberta Christian.1 In 1915 the four-room brick schoolhouse you see here was built. By 1922 further additions had to be built.
In those days most children only received an elementary school education, and would often spend their teenage years helping out on the farm. This started to change in earnest after the Second World War, when thriving in post-war society began to require more specialized knowledge. In response to this increasing demand for secondary education, a high school was built in 1949.
Nevertheless, in the 1950s and 60s overcrowding became an increasingly serious concern, as the baby boom brought far more children than ever before into the schools. Furthermore children on remote homesteads, who previously could only access education through home schooling, could now be bussed into Provost. An elementary school was built in 1960, and later on the much larger and more modern public school you see before you was finally completed.2
12. Community Spirit
Provincial Archives of Alberta A8943
ca. 1951
* * *
Some historians have tried to analyze this facet of Alberta's culture:
"As Paul Voisey has noted in his study of the Vulcan area,” despite differences between farmers and ranchers and differences in wealth, ethnicity and religion, open conflict seldom disturbed smalltown and rural life. Since the population base was small and institutions fragile, conflict could not be allowed to disrupt voluntary organizations, local politics, or commerce. Farmers and townspeople united instead against common enemies - banks, elevator companies, the CPR, eastern politicians and rival towns. The price of unity was often intolerance of difference and dissent."1
The forces that shaped Provost were by and large represented across Alberta, and lent to the forging of a new and unique culture:
"By design, the educational, religious, and political institutions of the new society were based largely on a Central Canadian model. However, out of the interaction of diverse people's whose traditions were circumscribed by climate, geography, and the constraints of Canadas economic and political system, a new society gradually emerged on the prairies, and in Alberta, different from those in other regions of Canada."2
13. Larson's Hardware
* * *
Carrie and the now four children (Edna was born in Hardisty) stayed behind until Fred had erected this store, and joined him that fall. For the first two years the family lived in the back of the store until a house was ready.
Fred's Danish origins were no secret to the people of the town, and a joke about his accent was memorable enough to make it into the community history book: "Most Scandinavians had trouble pronouncing words beginning with 'th'. A lady came into the store and asked to see a mattress, Mr. Larson asked her if she wanted a 'tick' or a 'tin' one."1
From the beginning Fred was clearly a very community-spirited man. Though he was a devoted Lutheran, he allowed the first Anglican church service in Provost to be held in his store in 1908. When a Lutheran Church Council was founded the next year, Fred was one of the trustees. When Provost became a village, Fred was elected to the first council.
Fred's son Elmer helped out around the store until the outbreak of the First World War when he enlisted with the Canadian Expeditionary Force and served in France. He was wounded in 1918 and returned to Provost where he worked with his dad to open up a machine shop behind the hardware store. His sister Alma went on to become a teacher at schools across the region, while Mable became a stenographer.
Fred passed away in 1954 and Elmer took over the family business. He had also clearly inherited much of his father's sense of community: He was active in the legion and the masonic lodge, elected a councillor and then mayor, and served as chief of the volunteer fire brigade. He passed away in 1969.2
The business fell to Elmer's son Ted, who had in turn grown up working alongside his father in the store. Continuing the tradition Ted raised his own son, Rodney, in the business, and Rodney continues to manage Larson's to this day. Rodney's son, Lee, helps out around the store, continuing the story of this Provost institution.3
Endnotes
1. The First Peoples
1. Jack W. Brink, *Imagining Head-Smashed-In: Aboriginal Buffalo Hunting on the Northern Plains,* (Edmonton: Athabasca University Press, 2008), online.
2. "Bodo Archaeological Site & Centre," Bodo Archaeological Society, online.
2. Elevator Row
1. Senior Citizen's Club of Provost, *Early Furrows: A Story of Our Early Pioneers in Provost, Hayter, Bodo, Alberta and Surrounding Districts*, (1977), 67.
2. Senior Citizen's Club of Provost, "Provost 1908", *Early Furrows*, 1.
3. The Settlers
1. S. Dunbar, "Pioneering at Provost," *Early Furrows: A Story of Our Early Pioneers in Provost, Hayter, Bodo, Alberta and Surrounding Districts*, (1977), 3.
2. Howard Palmer, *Alberta: A New History*, (Toronto: McClelland & Stewart, 1999), 83.
3. Palmer, 91.
4. Palmer, 134.
4. Pioneering in Provost
1. Dunbar, *Early Furrows*, 3.
2. Dunbar, *Early Furrows*, 4.
3. Senior Citizen's Club of Provost, *Early Furrows*, 67.
5. Planning a Town
1. Pierre Berton, *The Promised Land,* (Toronto: McClelland & Stewart, 1984), 323.
2. Berton, 323.
3. Eleanor (Carter) Campbell, "The Carter Family," *Early Furrows*, 204.
6. Cattle Ranching
1. Palmer, 125.
8. The Pioneer Store
1. Martha Brue, "Provost Pioneers," *Early Furrows*, 8-9.
9. Having Fun
1. Stan Watson, "Report on Provost School District," *Early Furrows,* 43.
2. Edna (Larson) Work, "The Larson Family," *Early Furrows*, 23.
10. Churchgoing
1. Senior Citizen's Club of Provost, *Early Furrows*, 54-65.
2. Palmer, 103.
3. Statistics Canada, "Provost, Town [Census subdivision]", *Census Profile, 2021 Census of Population*, online.
11. Education
1. Senior Citizen's Club of Provost, *Early Furrows*, 1.
2. Stan Watson, "Report on Provost School District," *Early Furrows,* 40.
12. Community Spirit
1. Palmer, 128.
2. Palmer, 105.
13. Larson's Hardware
1. Senior Citizen's Club of Provost, *Early Furrows*, 128.
2. Edna (Larson) Work, "The Larson Family," *Early Furrows,* 22-24.
3. Larson's Hardware, "Our History," online.
Bibliography
Senior Citizen's Club of Provost. *Early Furrows: A Story of Our Early Pioneers in Provost, Hayter, Bodo, Alberta and Surrounding Districts*. 1977.
Berton, Pierre. *The Promised Land.* Toronto: McClelland & Stewart, 1984.
Brink, Jack W. *Imagining Head-Smashed-In: Aboriginal Buffalo Hunting on the Northern Plains.* Edmonton: Athabasca University Press, 2008. https://read.aupress.ca/read/34e373b7-02f1-4bf8-b855-98932988ff93/section/5b62a218-84bd-42b1-b9df-f8bbd348afca#ch01
Bodo Archaeological Society. "Bodo Archaeological Site & Centre." https://bodoarchaeology.com/
Larson's Hardware, "Our History." https://www.provostnews.ca/homehardware/history.html
Palmer, Howard. *Alberta: A New History*. Toronto: McClelland & Stewart, 1999.
Statistics Canada. "Census Profile, 2021 Census of Population." " https://www12.statcan.gc.ca/census-recensement/2021/dp-pd/prof/details/page.cfm?Lang=E&SearchText=provost&GENDERlist=1,2,3&STATISTIClist=1&DGUIDlist=2021A00054807002&HEADERlist=0